By Kristen Schrum
Nestled in the growing culinary landscape of Fuquay-Varina, Khao Sen brings a bold new take on Thai cuisine. Light, airy and bright, this full-service eatery offers customers a unique escape into a tranquil realm brimming with aromatic food and bubbling boba teas.
Khao Sen is the vision of husband-and-wife duo Paul and Sara Puenpa, their longtime friend Joy Jirawan, and business partners Blake and Katie Zalcberg. Drawing on their deep roots in the restaurant industry—Sara and Joy both honed their skills at Wasabi, while Paul, a seasoned sushi chef, worked at Osha—this team set out to offer something beyond the typical expectations of Thai food.
“We wanted customers to see a different flavor of Thailand,” says Blake Zalcberg. “The food comes out of the kitchen with the team’s heart on [its] sleeve.” Instead of the standard Thai menu that leans heavily on familiar staples like pad thai and green curry, Khao Sen introduces what the owners describe as “homestyle, hearty Thai.” That means dishes cooked low and slow, layered with deep, rich flavors that reflect the places they come from.
The inspiration behind Khao Sen is deeply personal. The name itself, meaning “rice” (khao) and “noodle” (sen), is a nod to the staple ingredients that define Thai cuisine. But beyond the food, the owners saw an opportunity to serve a growing community in need of diverse dining options. As more people relocate to the Triangle from cities with rich culinary scenes, many are searching for a place that feels like home. “Fuquay-Varina has grown tremendously—it’s now around 42,000 people, and the demographic is becoming more diverse,” Zalcberg says. “There’s a real need for diverse food offerings.”
Two of the most popular dishes showcase the restaurant’s commitment to bold, comforting flavors. Khao Soi, a northern Thai-style curry, boasts a thick, velvety broth that coats tender noodles and succulent meat, delivering a balance of warmth and spice in every bite. Another standout is Ba Mii Moo Daeng, a deeply satisfying bowl of slow-roasted pork shoulder, pork and shrimp dumplings, bok choy, scallions, cilantro and crispy wontons, served over egg noodles with a side of rich pork broth. These dishes, along with an array of other menu items, encourage family-style dining—an experience the owners hope customers will embrace.
One loyal customer shared their recommendation: “Order a variety of dishes to try as much of the food as you can; family-style is the way to go.”
And that recommendation holds true. There are even plenty of shareable starters that offer different tastes along the diverse spectrum of Thai cuisine, such as Kanom Jeeb—steamed dumplings stuffed with ground pork, shrimp, water chestnuts, onion, scallion and cilantro, served with a sweet soy sauce; and Som Tam Polamai—a refreshing fruit salad with grapes, apples, pineapple, oranges, cherry tomato, lime juice and dried Thai chili, tossed with a spicy fruit dressing. But when it comes to dessert, you might want your own—the Sweet Sticky Rice with Thai Mango is just too good to split.
“It’s all about making people feel like they’re coming home to eat,” Zalcberg says. “If you walk into any home in Thailand, these are the kinds of dishes you would be offered.”
In order to emphasize a homestyle atmosphere with a hint of elevated comfort, the Khao Sen team designed the space to strike a balance between casual dining and a clean atmosphere. The dining area is spacious and open, with large windows that flood the room with natural light. White bistro chairs surround minimalist wooden tables, while plush booth seating provides a cozy alternative.
Thoughtful touches, such as soft green pendant lights and sleek black-and-gold accents, create a space that feels both modern and inviting. The open-concept design ensures that the restaurant feels lively, yet never overwhelming, encouraging guests to relax and enjoy their meal while placing full emphasis on the food.
Beyond its rich, home-cooked Thai fare, Khao Sen also loves to showcase their tea bar that redefines the traditional boba experience. “We treat them more as mocktails than tea,” Zalcberg eagerly explains. “We define them as our own, considering flavor profiles and combinations.” This innovative approach ensures that even those just stopping by for a drink can experience the thoughtfulness that goes into every offering.
While there may not be pad thai on the menu, every offering at Khao Sen—from its slow-braised curries to its house-crafted drinks—reflects the team’s dedication to sharing a different flavor of Thailand than what people are accustomed to; to share a unique heritage in an authentic yet unexpected way. As the Triangle continues to grow, restaurants like Khao Sen ensure that the evolving community doesn’t have to look far to find a place that feels like home.
