By Dathan Kazsuk
Every kitchen has a rhythm—and behind it, a chef setting the temperature.
For this installment of our Meet the Chef series, we step behind the line with James Eason, executive chef at Irregardless—a Raleigh institution now 50 years young. With more than 15 years of professional experience and a culinary path
shaped in San Francisco’s Michelin-starred kitchens, Eason brings a distinctly California sensibility to the Triangle—ingredient-driven, restrained, and intentional.
Since taking the helm at Irregardless in October 2024, he’s focused on building a strong kitchen culture, simplifying plates, and letting great products do the talking. From bacon-wrapped Medjool dates and scallops with collards to vegan dishes that win over even the skeptics, Eason’s cooking reflects a philosophy rooted in clarity, consistency, and community. In this conversation, he talks trends worth keeping (and ditching), the realities of running a long-standing local restaurant, and why the best food isn’t made for the camera, but for the people gathered around the table.
1. What’s the one dish on your menu that feels most connected to the Triangle community?
Morgan Street chicken—lemon tahini marinade, cashew panko crust, Yukon gold mashed potato, braised kale, grain mustard cream sauce, and chives.
2. What makes running a restaurant in Western Wake feel different from anywhere else?
Irregardless is now 50 years young. The location and the amazing neighborhood really set the restaurant apart.
3. What’s one thing you wish people knew about the work that goes into running a local restaurant?
You have to be comfortable wearing 10 different hats.
4. What dish on your menu would you recommend to someone visiting for the first time—and why?
The fried oyster mushroom with butternut squash risotto. It’s vegan and doesn’t seem like it. It’s delicious.
5. How does your team reflect the community around you?
Most of my team has been working at Irregardless for 10+ years. They are baked into the local community.
6. Has the Western Wake area influenced your cooking in any surprising ways?
Absolutely. This area has a strong sense of community and seasonality that naturally finds its way into my cooking. Dishes that feel elevated without losing their warmth. That balance has pushed me to focus more on restraint, clarity, and letting ingredients speak, rather than overcomplicating the plate. Food that’s meant to be enjoyed, not explained.
7. What local businesses do you personally love to support?
Gym Tacos, The Cardinal, and Wolfe & Porter.
