| By Elliot Acosta |
Even in an age where social media is quick to unearth every hidden culinary gem, there are still instances of delectable delights that have primarily been passed along through word of mouth. These food stories of local lore persist by hiding in unexpected settings, undetected by the typical inquisitive eaters.
Fried Bologna Sandwich at the Wake County Speedway
Years ago, a coworker of mine brought to my attention the legend of the fried bologna sandwich at the Wake County Speedway. Through his thick, distinctly Carolina drawl he recounted an evening of high-speed automobiles and exhaust, ending his account with “and they have a really good fried bologna sandwich that people love.”
Wake County Speedway’s bologna sandwich can be traced as far back as the track’s inception and the first lady of the track, Jean Simpkins. The wife of Glenn Simpkins, the speedway’s founder, she worked the concessions at the racetrack at the time. Although the stand served the typical concession fare like hot dogs and hamburgers, the racers brought their love for a fried bologna sandwich with them from their home of Wilson County. To satisfy their cravings, Simpkins would lug her mother-in-law’s meat slicer to the track every day to carve up perfect slices of bologna.
Two years ago, the legacy continued with Luis and Leslie Delacruz of The Raccoon Grill. The sandwich’s reputation was unbeknown to them, but they put it on their menu at the request of the speedway’s owner. Lesile admits there are no hidden ingredients or trade secrets to The Raccoon Grill’s rendition of the beloved sandwich, and truth be told, it’s better that way. It’s a straightforward, unapologetic slab of charred lunch meat. A cheese sauce, chili, and onions complete the lusty sandwich. An evening full of warm summer heat with the breeze from the speeding automobiles, made complete by thick slices of lunch meats.
Wake County Speedway
2109 Simpkins Rd
Raleigh, NC 27603
Gas Station Sushi
Ask around Apex for the best sushi in town and there’s a good chance you’ll be directed toward a gas station. This isn’t a bad joke, prank, or poor taste—it’s the work of Bird Owattragool’s Akami Sushi Bar. Tucked into the corner of a gas station, Akami transports you away from the rows of a gas station convenience store’s soft drinks and candy to a sleek, refined sushi restaurant.
Built on top of what was once a Subway restaurant, Owattragool would pass by the space every day on his way to his former head chef position in Holly Springs. What may have been an inauspicious space for some, Owattragool could immediately imagine operating a sushi place in the space.
Opened in 2019, Akami has built a reputation among the locals for its outstanding sushi in its peculiar setting. This exceptionalism isn’t a trick of contrast or a product of low expectations. Rather, Akami’s offerings stand alone in their quality and excellence. “My style is simple. My kind of sushi is old-fashioned,” remarks Owattragool.
Despite Akami’s growing local reputation, Owattragool notices that diners are still hesitant to get their raw fish fix at a gas station, “About 80% of people are still afraid to try it because they think of something like supermarket sushi.” However, Owattragool sees a change in the diner once they get over their anxiety and have a taste of what Akami has to offer. “Once they try, they come back.”
Akami Sushi Bar
1561 E Williams St
Apex, NC 27539
Tea Time at the Market
In search of hidden gems, a social media follower tipped me off to the superb chai and chaat service at Morrisville’s Sangam Mart. “When the weather is nice, it’s hard to find parking,” they said.
You may not immediately notice Sangam Mart, tucked away on Morrisville’s Chapel Hill Road, but if you find crowds gathering among the road’s industrial businesses and corporate offices, you’ve stumbled upon it. Since 2006, the humble market has served Morrisville as a vibrant community hub and convenient destination for native ingredients for homesick expats. “We are not a business. We solved a problem,” insists managing partner Radhesh Reddy Gurrala, stressing how Sangam Mart serves needs much greater than just groceries and food—it has become a community gathering place. “There are about 15 to 20 meetup groups that meet here,” says Gurrala. “You’ll see people celebrating birthdays outside, cutting cake,” adds founder and managing partner Melpakkam Sundar.
Sangam Mart’s rendition of a cultural cornerstone, chai tea, serves as an invitation to the space as well as the center of its community experience. “The tea is the source [of community],” reflects Gurrala. The robust and flavorful brew is crafted by an Indian tea master. “It’s the same recipe he had from India,” Sundar says. “He brews the tea with real masala.” This attention to detail is also reflected in their evening chaat—an Indian snack featuring regional Indian treats that eager patrons are willing to travel for hours to taste.
Sangam Mart
10300 Chapel Hill Rd Suite 600
Morrisville, NC 27560
